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Citation du moment
« Il n'y a pas de bonnes habitudes. L'habitude, c'est une façon de mourir sur place. »
Albert Quentin - Un singe en hiver

Day 2: Wish it, have it!

11 Dec 2013 | Tiruvannamalai to Krishnagiri - 105km

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Again I start with sunrise, to take advantage of the morning freshness. The road is quite bad, and made of small hills which makes it more complicated... Some mountains appears around to give some bits of landscape which is enjoyable.

It feels like that day is blessed: early morning I feel like having a tea, and suddenly a tea stand appears at the side of the road. Then I'd like a coconut, and the coconut man is here waiting for me. A cheap plate of rice, right here! After lunch, when the heat is getting hard, I'm thinking that it would be great to find a place where to swim, ideally there would be children already swimming there so I know that it's safe place... And there it comes, children call my from the roadside and it's time for a bath! That day I also discover the sugar cane juice, I don't know how I could have survived all these years not knowing of its existence!

In the evening I reach the motorway, it will be only that to Bangalore and even further, so I'd better make friend with it. But it's actually ok, the road is good, not too much traffic coming frontward, and it's not so busy so I have room to cycle.

105km completed that day. I find a perfect place to sleep soon, but just after sunset two men came and told me that I can't sleep here (apparently there are hunters...) and try to direct me to an hotel. Seeing they won't get much luck there, they tell me I can sleep under the water tank a bit farther away. But I didn't understand so I have a perfect night sleeping on the top of it, under the stars!

Cycling India, day 1: India is flat!

10 Dec 2013 | Auroville to Tiruvannamalai - 115km

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It's 6am when I leave. Perfect time for the little magic trick of disappearing. I didn't say anyone I was leaving, except Lydie and her daughter Oriane so they could sort out a few stuff for me. Well I hadn't really plan on leaving anyway. I throw everything on my bike and start cycling. After an hour, I stop and get my stuff organized a little so I could really get somewhere.
The plan is very basic: I'm 65km from Gingee, so I can cycle there and probably arrive by the evening, totally exhausted, before I ditch the cycle and continue some other way...

But it doesn't happen that way. I reach Gingee by 10.30am. It has been a pleasant ride, I'm nothing like tired. All the way was really flat, no obstacle. My cycle has been doing well, despite the left pedal which gets stuck every now and then (I had try to repair it the day before, no success apparently).
So it's decided, I'll continue cycling. I take my cycle to the doctor, get the broken pedal changed, also add a rear-view mirror (best invention ever!!) and a cute white-pink-green horn which is much more efficient than the ring. Buy her some flower and back on the road
I first stop at Gingee's famous fort to have a look at a reduced price, and continue to Tirunvannamalai. I end up with the night some 15km after it. 115km for a first day, not bad!

I’m gypsy, no hippie!

10 Dec 2013 | Auroville, Tamil Nadu, India

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For those who didn't follow, I was in Auroville back in April and as I was only ten days there, I decided that it would be worth exploring and understanding more. Being in Sri Lanka, which is only 40km from India (even if no boat to cross), I could just do that now. So there I go, I contact the Auroville Bamboo Research Centre which I had found most interesting on my last visit and agree for a two months voluntary work.

But unlike most -real- volunteering places, Auroville is organised in such a way (the Indian crazy administration applied by hippies, ah!) that you don't get anything much when volunteering there. If you do more than two months (which happens I could qualify for), you get discount for food (which basically brings it back to Indian price), and some of the accommodations.

Auroville itself is definitely a strange place, it has a bit of Indian flavour thanks to the Indian people, local or passers-by, but it definitely is a white people's place. It has all of their problems: the rigidity, the organisation issues, some kind-of competition in between the people (communities almost never work together), the selfishness, the complains... And the worst is the hypocrisy, people pretending they want to leave at peace with each other and not being capable to be at peace with themselves, pretending they are not materialistic and running after money and possessions, talking about sharing and making sure no one will get a bit of what they have...
Fortunately there are also good sides like a certain openness, an ecological vision, creativity... And of course not everyone is like that, there are still plenty of interesting people around, trying to work for a better world, and even fighting against all of these flaws (very brave, as the machine looks much gripped). Thanks to them, Auroville is worth visiting and very interesting place!
So, I most enjoy my time there, riding my cycle around, chilling, partying sometime, making fires, juggling, doing sport and crafts...

The work at the bamboo centre is very interesting to me: I have at disposal a full workshop with all the tools I could dream of, and all the leeway I want to try, experiment, create anything out of bamboos. The place is lead by Baloo, a stressed and stressful Tamil from the area, who also leads Mohanam school, an experimental school in the village nearby. There is also Nick, an Englishman who left the life of a CEO six years ago and do management stuff here. And Walter, a Belgian, who was in Auroville at the very beginning of its creation and after having left, decided to come back a year ago now that he is retired. He is a professional woodworker and teaches me a lot. And of course all the local workers and other volunteers which are very nice and inspiring.

The life there is punctuated by volunteers, students, interns and other visitors, coming for an hour, a day, a week, a month. It is interesting to meet all these people, explain them about bamboo and its particularities (I become good at that ;). Also I learn construction and design with bamboo, I create a few new stuffs: juggling clubs using the lathe (my favourite), a solar oven which never worked as it was broken before the sun would come out, a bamboo hammock which costed me a lot of sweat and blood, a bamboo clock which is now produced and sold, some bamboo whistles...

At the end I'm very happy to leave. It's the longest time I have been staying at one place in the last two years, so feet are getting very itchy. And I need to get away from that enclave of western world, and to be in real India. But still I met tons of people here that I will miss a lot, that I hope to cross on my way, would it be in India or elsewhere. Some say I will be back sometime maybe. Maybe.

Colombo

14 Oct 2013 | Colombo, Western Province, Sri Lanka

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It's a big shock to be back in such a huge city as Colombo! After two months at sea, and one month going around Sri Lanka's country, I couldn't be so far from being prepared to it.
Here there is absolutely nothing to see, no interest whatsoever in being there. I find the shittiest/cheapest hotel ever (slept with fleas, bedbugs, ticks....) to make sure I don't even enjoy a rest. Fortunately David joins me for my last day around, it's always good to see him and share a few beers after we sort out there is nothing else to do here.

Chilling Chilaw

12 Oct 2013 | Chilaw, North Western Province, Sri Lanka

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Leaving Nuwara Eliya, I first hitchhike to Kandy again, where I spend a couple of days to get a new visa on my passport. Then I go to Chilaw (by bus, it's too hot for hitchhiking haha!) to spend a few days with Herath (the custom officer from Trincomalee) and his family as he invited me.

It's very good time there, all the family is super-nice, the children make sure we never get bored :)
We spend time chilling, and drinking, and enjoying my last few days in Sri Lanka!

It’s not the end of the world… Ah yes, it is!

7 Oct 2013 | Horton Plains National Park, Sabaragamuwa, Sri Lanka

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I stay one more day in Trinco to wait for Lucia, a Sicilian girl who teach English in Mutur and wanted to join me for her weekend. From Trincomalee we take six buses to end up in the middle of the night in Belihul Oya.

The plan is to go to Horton Plains national park, and have a look at the World's End which is a 870 meters high cliff, 2100m above sea level. To go there, you normally take a train to Pattipola, and then a vehicle to the park, where you are allowed to walk along an 8km loop. On the way, you are of course relieved of a 40$ entrance fee... Doesn't sounds very appealing to me!
Looking at the map, I see there is a pathway from Belihul Oya, which is basically at the bottom of the cliff. From there you climb 1500m over a 30km walk (I hadn't check before, I thought it would be a two-or-three-hours walk, sorry Lucia ;) ). After crossing 3km of dense jungle, you find yourself right at the World's End cliff. Where we arrive with the night and camp there to enjoy the sunrise! After walking on the trail, we hitchhike a tourist car out to avoid being noticed walking the gate out. And the car takes us directly to Nuwara Eliya. Perfect!

Lucia leaves the following day, I stay one day more to enjoy that city. Nuwara Eliya has been founded by the British during the colonial time, for that it reminded them of the climate of England. For sure it does, as being very high and surrounded by rainforests, it's always cold (max temp. 15 to 25°C) and humid. So it's good for me to enjoy a bit of cool air!

Trinco again!

2 Oct 2013 | Trincomalee, Eastern Province, Sri Lanka

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Leaving Kandy, I decide I will walk South, to cross the 120km of mountains at the center of the country. But after 30km (including a few rides in tuk-tuks and trucks I couldn't refuse), I get a call from Tony: there is a problem with the customs in Trincomalee, they wouldn't allow Valdange to leave until they see me and David (who had made his way to Jaffna in the North). I'm shared in between the fact I enjoy walking around a lot and don't want to go to hot Trinco, but I can't really abandon them blocked forever...
So I make a compromise for myself, I hitchhike across the Victoria Sanctuary national park (so at least I can enjoy that one) to Mahiyanganaya and from there I find a bus to Kaduruwala, then another one to Harabana, and finally one to Trinco which put me in town around midnight. Easy!

Back in Trincomalee I meet the customs head officer who explains me it was an offence to just leave, while they didn't have check my bag for imported goods -sorry I won't do it again. But then it takes countless go and back between the customs, the agent in charge of the boat, Tony&co to make sure everything is fine (we apparently needed a document from the customs that allow us to leave the country on our own, but finally not, but finally we needed one from the agent, but finally not, but finally not sure, but but but.....).
At the end, there was nothing needed from us really (appart from blaming us for being naughty boys...), but we still wait for Valdange to be gone just in case, before celebrating that with our friend Herath from the customs :-)

Kandy

29 Sep 2013 | Kandy, Central Province, Sri Lanka

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I make my way to Kandy, a town at the beginning of the mountains, for a bit of cooler air. I don't like it too much, it's a big city -in fact the second biggest in Sri Lanka as I read later-, it's noisy, polluted, and not really cooler at all, as being in a valley there is no much wind. There is that big lake (which I have to admit is very pretty, with lot of interesting fauna and flora), the biggest bhuddist temple around (the Temple of Tooth, which host one of bhudda's tooth that symbolizes power to whom owns it), a botanical garden, and tons of other stuff; which makes it a very touristy city, and so local people adapt with expensive prices, and quite constant hassle.

But nevertheless, I can still enjoy some rest, make friend with a few locals, have some walks around the lake...

Trincomalee

23 Sep 2013 | Trincomalee, Eastern Province, Sri Lanka

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We finally arrive in Trincomalee, North-East of Sri Lanka. When we arrive at the entrance of the port, in the middle of the night, we are chased by a navy ship who forbids us the entrance. We then anchor out of the city, in Dutch bay, to sort out the trouble by radio. It turns out that we are not allowed to disembark whatsoever as we didn't plan our arrival there through an agent, at the end Tony accepts to play their game and finally hires an agent by phone, it will cost him 350$ US at the end.

Finally on land! We park the boat in Trinco harbour and after the custodary beer (or few beers to be perfectly honest), we start organizing our days around. As Tony wants to spend as little time as possible in Sri Lanka -while I'd rather enjoy it-, and as I have no good reason to sail back to Europe already (I miss you my friends, but it's not time yet :-) ), I decide I will stay, the end of a two-months adventure sailing. David was already supposed to leave the boat, so we end up taking a room in town together.

Trincomalee is a cute little city, mainly inhabited by Tamil people. Hindus, muslims, christians and bhuddist coexist in harmony, everyone have beers together :) People are very relaxed and the town is -quite- calm. It feels like India in a less hectic version.
Chilling at the beach and trying to sort out what do you do with a woodapple, we meet Mubarak, a local fisherman, whom we befriend immediately. He offers to take us to the hot springs out of the city the following day (the cheap way: local bus and walking), and we end up going out fishing with him and his partner Kuti, spending time with Kuti's family, having some -many- drinks... Super!

Gentlemen only sail downwind!

15 Sep 2013 | Bay of Bengal, Sri Lanka

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Back at sea, 1850 miles to Sri Lanka. The first three days are good, with quite a rough sea but good winds. But the rest turns out quite hard, the only few time we don't spend fighting thunderstorms trying to blow us opposite direction (with up to force 11 winds, on a scale of 12) or to bury us under water, we are totally becalmed and can only enjoy a good swim in the biggest swimming pool ever.

We fight for every mile in the right direction, happy when we do 50 in a day (on normal conditions, we should double that), at night, when I'm not alone on watch learning sailing the hard way, I experience what it would be to sleep in a washing machine, water included as for the countless leaks in the boat and the waves splashing my bed each time I forget to close my hatch. And when finally we're close to reach it, the currents and the winds decide otherwise, pushing us North-East of Sri Lanka while Colombo is in the South-West. After four days fighting with storms, currents, trying everything, even motoring, and doing only 15 miles a day, we decide to try our luck on the other coast. We turn around and literally fly with the wind and the current, doing up to 12 knots (our normal cruising speed is usually 3 to 5 knots)...
As David says, gentlemen only sail downwind!